Shrinkage yejira inoreva kuwanda kwejira mushure mekugeza kana kunyura.Shrinkage chiitiko chekuti urefu kana hupamhi hwemachira hunochinja mushure mekugeza, kupera simba, kuomesa uye mamwe maitiro mune imwe nyika.Iyo dhigirii ye shrinkage inosanganisira dzakasiyana mhando dzefiber, chimiro chemicheka, akasiyana ekunze masimba pamachira panguva yekugadzira, zvichingodaro.
Synthetic fibers uye machira akasanganiswa ane diki diki shrinkage, inoteverwa nemvere dzemakwai, mucheka uye machira ekotoni, nepo machira esirika ane shrinkage yakakura, nepo viscose fibers, yekugadzira donje uye machira emvere ekugadzira ane hrinkage yakakura.Nechinangwa kutaura, kune shrinkage uye kupera kwematambudziko mumachira ese ekotoni, uye kiyi ndiyo yekumashure kupedzisa.Naizvozvo, machira emachira epamba anowanzo pre shrunk.Zvinokosha kucherechedza kuti pashure pre shrinkage kurapwa, hazvirevi kuti hapana shrinkage, asi kuti shrinkage rate inodzorwa mukati 3% -4% yenyika mwero.Zvipfeko zvekupfeka, kunyanya zvechisikigo fiber zvipfeko zvinhu, zvichaderera.Nokudaro, pakusarudza zvipfeko, hatifaniri kungosarudza chete kunaka, ruvara uye muenzaniso wejira, asiwo kunzwisisa shrinkage yejira.
01.Kufurira kwefiber uye weaving shrinkage
Mushure mokunge fiber pachayo inotora mvura, inobudisa imwe chiyero chekuzvimba.Kazhinji, kuzvimba kwefibers is anisotropic (kunze kwenylon), ndiko kuti, kureba kunopfupiswa uye dhayamita inowedzera.Kazhinji, chikamu chekureba musiyano pakati pemucheka pamberi uye shure kwemvura uye kureba kwayo kwepakutanga kunonzi shrinkage.Iyo yakasimba yekunyura kwemvura, iyo yakasimba kuzvimba uye yakakwirira kuderera, zvakanyanya kusimba kwedimensional kugadzikana kwejira.
Kureba kwejira pachayo kwakasiyana nekureba kweshinda (sirika) yakashandiswa, uye musiyano unowanzoratidzwa nemucheka shrinkage.
Mucheka shrinkage (%) = [shinda (sirika) shinda kureba - machira kureba] / machira kureba
Mushure mokunge jira rakaiswa mumvura, nekuda kwekuputika kwefiber pachayo, kureba kwejira kunowedzera kupfupika, zvichiita kuti shrinkage.Iyo shrinkage yejira inosiyana nekuderera kwayo.Iyo shrinkage yejira inosiyana neyakagadzirwa machira uye kuruka tension.Weaving tension idiki, jira rakabatana uye gobvu, uye shrinkage yakakura, saka shrinkage yejira idiki;Kana iyo yekuruka yakakurisa, jira richave rakasununguka uye rakareruka, shrinkage yejira ichave diki, uye shrinkage yejira ichave yakakura.Mukugadzira uye kupedzisa nzira, kuitira kuderedza kuderera kwemachira, preshrinking kupedzisa kunowanzoshandiswa kuwedzera weft density uye kunatsiridza shrinkage mberi, kuitira kuderedza shrinkage yemucheka.
02.Zvikonzero zvekuderera
① Kana faibha ichitenderera, kana shinda ichiruka, kudhaya uye kupera, shinda yeshinda mumucheka inotambanudzwa kana kukanganiswa nemasimba ekunze, uye panguva imwe chete, shinda yeshinda uye chimiro chejira zvinoburitsa kushushikana kwemukati.Mune static yakaoma kuzorora mamiriro, kana static wet kuzorora mamiriro, kana dynamic wet kuzorora mamiriro, yakazara kuzorora mamiriro, kuburitswa kwemukati kushushikana kune akasiyana madhigirii, kuitira kuti shinda yeshinda uye jira zvidzokere kune yekutanga mamiriro.
② Mhando dzakasiyana-siyana uye machira avo ane shrinkage madhigirii akasiyana, ayo anonyanya kuenderana nehunhu hwemafibers avo - hydrophilic fibers ine yakakura shrinkage degree, yakadai sekotoni, hemp, viscose uye mamwe mafiber;Hydrophobic fibers ine zvishoma shrinkage, senge synthetic fibers.
③ Kana iyo fiber iri mukunyorova, inozvimba pasi pechiito chemvura inonyura, iyo inowedzera fiber dhayamita.Semuenzaniso, pamucheka, inomanikidza iyo fiber curvature radius yeweaving point yejira kuti iwedzere, zvichikonzera kupfupisa kwejira rejira.Semuenzaniso, kana fiber yekotoni yakawedzerwa pasi pekuita kwemvura, nzvimbo yemuchinjikwa inowedzera ne 40 ~ 50% uye urefu hunowedzera ne 1 ~ 2%, nepo synthetic fiber inowanzoita 5% pakupisa kwekushisa, zvakadai sekuvira. kupera kwemvura.
④ Kana iyo fiber yemachira ichipisa, chimiro uye saizi yefiber inoshanduka uye chibvumirano, uye haigone kudzokera kune yekutanga mamiriro mushure mekutonhora, iyo inonzi fiber thermal shrinkage.Kureba kwehurefu kusati kwapera uye mushure mekupisa kunonzi kuderera kwekupisa, izvo zvinowanzoratidzwa nehuwandu hwehurefu hwefiber shrinkage mumvura iri kufashaira pa100 ℃;Nzira yemhepo inopisa inoshandiswawo kuyera huwandu hwekuderera mumhepo inopisa pamusoro pe100 ℃, uye nzira yemhepo inoshandiswawo kuyera huwandu hwekuderera mumhepo inodarika 100 ℃.Kuita kwefibers kwakasiyanawo pasi pemamiriro akasiyana senge mukati memukati, kupisa tembiricha uye nguva.Semuenzaniso, mvura inofashaira shrinkage yeprocessed polyester staple fiber i1%, mvura inofashaira shrinkage yevinylon i5%, uye kupisa kwemhepo shrinkage yenylon i50%.Mafayibha ane hukama zvakanyanya nekugadzira machira uye kugadzikana kwedimensional yemachira, izvo zvinopa humwe hwaro hwekugadzira maitiro anotevera.
03.The shrinkage of general machira
Donje 4% - 10%;
Kemikari fiber 4% - 8%;
Cotton polyester 3.5% -5 5%;
3% yejira jena rechisikigo;
3-4% yemucheka webhuruu wemvere dzemakwai;
Poplin ndeye 3-4.5%;
3-3.5% yecalico;
4% yemucheka wejira;
10% yejira rebasa;
Artificial cotton i10%.
04.Zvikonzero zvinokanganisa kuderera
1. Raw materials
Iyo shrinkage yemachira inosiyana neyakagadzirwa zvinhu.Kazhinji kutaura, mafiber ane high hygroscopicity achawedzera, kuwedzera dhayamita, kupfupika pakureba, uye kuva nehombe huru mushure mekunyura.Semuyenzaniso, mamwe maviscose fibers ane mvura absorption ye13%, nepo machira ekugadzira faibha asina kunwa mvura zvakanaka, uye kuderera kwawo kudiki.
2. Density
Iyo shrinkage yemachira inosiyana nekuwanda kwavo.Kana longitude nelatitude density zvakafanana, kureba nelatitude shrinkage iri padyo zvakare.Micheka ine high warp density ine yakakura warp shrinkage.Sezvineiwo, machira ane hukuru hweweft density pane warp density ane hombe weft shrinkage.
3. Ukobvu hweshinda
Iyo shrinkage yemachira inosiyana zvichienderana nehuwandu hweshinda.Iyo shrinkage yejira ine coarse count yakakura, uye iyo yejira ine yakanaka kuverenga idiki.
4. Nzira yekugadzira
Iyo shrinkage yemachira inosiyana nenzira dzakasiyana dzekugadzira.Kazhinji kutaura, mukuruka nekudhaya nekupedzisa, fiber inoda kutambanudzwa kakawanda, uye nguva yekugadzira yakareba.Mucheka une tension yakakura inoshandiswa ine shrinkage yakakura, uye zvakasiyana.
5. Fiber yakagadzirwa
Zvichienzaniswa nemafuta ekugadzira (akadai sepolyester uye acrylic), mashizha emiti yemiti (yakadai sekotoni uye hemp) uye mashizha emiti yakagadziridzwa (yakadai seviscose) zviri nyore kutora unyoro uye kuwedzera, saka shrinkage yakakura, asi mvere dziri nyore inonzwikwa nekuda kwechikero chimiro pane fiber pamusoro, zvichikanganisa kugadzikana kwayo kwedimensional.
6. Chimiro chemucheka
Kazhinji, kugadzikana kwedimensional yemachira akarukwa ari nani pane ayo akarukwa machira;Iyo dimensional kugadzikana kwemachira akakwirira-density ari nani pane iyo yepasi-density machira.Mumicheka yakarukwa, shrinkage yemachira akajeka kazhinji idiki pane iyo yeflannel machira;Mumicheka yakarukwa, shrinkage ye plain stitch idiki pane iyo yembabvu machira.
7. Kugadzira uye kugadzirisa maitiro
Nekuti jira rinozotambanudzwa nemuchina mukuita dhayi, kudhinda uye kupedzisa, pane kunetsana pamucheka.Zvisinei, jira racho riri nyore kubvisa kushushikana mushure mekusangana nemvura, saka tichaona kuti jira rinopera mushure mekugeza.Mukuita chaiko, tinowanzo shandisa pre shrinkage kugadzirisa dambudziko iri.
8. Washing care process
Washing care inosanganisira kuwacha, kuomesa nekuaina.Imwe neimwe yematanho matatu aya ichakanganisa shrinkage yejira.Semuenzaniso, iyo dimensional kugadzikana kwemasample akagezeswa nemaoko ari nani pane aya emuchina akagezwa samples, uye tembiricha yekuwachisa ichakanganisawo kugadzikana kwayo.Kazhinji kutaura, kuwedzera kwekushisa, kunowedzera kugadzikana.Nzira yekuomesa yemuenzaniso inewo simba guru pakuderera kwejira.
Nzira dzinowanzo shandiswa dzekuomesa kudonha, simbi mesh tileing, kurembera kuomesa uye kutenderedza dhiramu kuomesa.Iyo yekudonha yekuomesa nzira ine zvishoma pesvedzero pakukura kwejira, nepo iyo inotenderera yedhiramu arch yekuomesa nzira ine simba guru pakukura kwejira, uye mamwe maviri ari pakati.
Uye zvakare, kusarudza yakakodzera ironing tembiricha zvinoenderana nekuumbwa kwejira kunogonawo kugadzirisa shrinkage yejira.Semuyenzaniso, machira ekotoni nerineni anogona kuayinwa pakupisa kwepamusoro kuti avandudze kuderera kwawo.Zvisinei, iyo yakakwirira tembiricha, zviri nani.Kune mafibhi ekugadzira, kutonhora kwepamusoro-kupisa hakugone kuvandudza kuderera kwayo, asi kunokuvadza kushanda kwayo, senge machira akaoma uye anoputika.
——————————————————————————————————-From Fabric Class
Nguva yekutumira: Jul-05-2022