Raunin masana'anta yana nufin adadin raguwar masana'anta bayan wanka ko jiƙa.Rushewa wani al'amari ne da tsayi ko faɗin kayan ya canza bayan wankewa, bushewa, bushewa da sauran matakai a wani yanayi.Matsayin raguwa ya ƙunshi nau'ikan zaruruwa daban-daban, tsarin masana'anta, ƙarfin waje daban-daban akan yadudduka yayin sarrafawa, da sauransu.
Filayen roba da yadudduka da aka haɗa suna da mafi ƙarancin raguwa, sai ulu, lilin da yadudduka na auduga, yayin da yadudduka na siliki suna da raguwa mafi girma, yayin da filayen viscose, auduga na wucin gadi da yadudduka na ulu na wucin gadi suna da raguwa mafi girma.Maganar gaskiya, akwai matsalolin raguwa da raguwa a cikin duk masana'anta na auduga, kuma mabuɗin shine ƙarshen baya.Saboda haka, yadudduka na kayan aikin gida gabaɗaya sun riga sun lalace.Yana da mahimmanci a lura cewa bayan jiyya ta farko, ba yana nufin cewa babu raguwa ba, amma ana sarrafa ƙimar raguwa a cikin 3% -4% na daidaitattun ƙasa.Kayan tufafi, musamman kayan tufafin fiber na halitta, za su ragu.Sabili da haka, lokacin zabar tufafi, ya kamata mu zaɓi ba kawai inganci, launi da ƙirar masana'anta ba, amma kuma mu fahimci raguwar masana'anta.
01.Tasirin fiber da raguwar saƙa
Bayan fiber da kansa ya sha ruwa, zai haifar da wani nau'i na kumburi.Gabaɗaya, kumburin zaruruwa shine anisotropic (sai dai nailan), wato, ana taqaitaccen tsayi kuma ana ƙara diamita.Yawancin lokaci, yawan bambancin tsayi tsakanin masana'anta kafin da bayan ruwa da kuma tsawonsa na asali ana kiransa shrinkage.Ƙarfin ƙarfin shayarwar ruwa, ƙarfin kumburi da haɓaka mafi girma, mafi muni da kwanciyar hankali na masana'anta.
Tsawon masana'anta kanta ya bambanta da tsayin zaren (siliki) da aka yi amfani da shi, kuma yawanci ana nuna bambanci ta hanyar raguwar masana'anta.
Rushewar Fabric (%) = [yarn (siliki) tsayin zaren - tsayin masana'anta] / tsayin masana'anta
Bayan an sanya masana'anta a cikin ruwa, saboda kumburin fiber kanta, tsawon masana'anta ya kara raguwa, yana haifar da raguwa.Ƙunƙarar masana'anta ya bambanta tare da raguwa.Ƙirƙirar masana'anta ya bambanta tare da tsarin masana'anta da tashin hankali saƙa.Tashin saƙa yana da ƙarami, masana'anta suna da ƙanƙara kuma mai kauri, kuma raguwa yana da girma, don haka raguwar masana'anta yana da ƙananan;Idan tashin hankali na saƙar yana da girma, masana'anta za su kasance masu laushi da haske, raguwar masana'anta zai zama ƙananan, kuma raguwar masana'anta zai zama babba.A cikin rini da karewa tsari, domin rage shrinkage na yadudduka, preshrinking gama da aka sau da yawa amfani da kara yawan weft da kuma inganta shrinkage a gaba, don rage shrinkage na yadudduka.
02.Abinda ke kawo raguwa
① Lokacin da fiber ke jujjuya, ko yarn yana saƙa, rini da ƙarewa, zaren zaren da ke cikin masana'anta ya shimfiɗa ko ya lalace ta hanyar ƙarfin waje, kuma a lokaci guda, fiber fiber da tsarin masana'anta suna haifar da damuwa na ciki.A cikin yanayin shakatawa na bushewa a tsaye, ko yanayin jin daɗin jika, ko yanayin shakatawa mai ƙarfi, cikakken yanayin shakatawa, sakin damuwa na ciki zuwa digiri daban-daban, ta yadda zaren yarn da masana'anta suka koma yanayin farko.
② Filaye daban-daban da masana'anta suna da digiri daban-daban na shrinkage, wanda yawanci ya dogara da halaye na fibers - fibers hydrophilic suna da babban digiri na shrinkage, irin su auduga, hemp, viscose da sauran fibers;Zaɓuɓɓukan hydrophobic suna da ƙarancin raguwa, kamar zaruruwan roba.
③ Lokacin da fiber ke cikin yanayin rigar, zai kumbura a ƙarƙashin aikin ruwan sha, wanda zai ƙara diamita na fiber.Alal misali, akan masana'anta, zai tilasta radius curvature na fiber na wurin saƙa na masana'anta ya karu, wanda zai haifar da raguwa na tsawon masana'anta.Misali, lokacin da aka fadada fiber auduga a ƙarƙashin aikin ruwa, yanki na giciye yana ƙaruwa da 40 ~ 50% kuma tsayin ya ƙaru da 1 ~ 2%, yayin da fiber na roba gabaɗaya kusan 5% don raguwar thermal, kamar tafasa. raguwar ruwa.
④ Lokacin da fiber ɗin ya yi zafi, siffar da girman fiber ya canza da kwangila, kuma ba zai iya komawa zuwa yanayin farko ba bayan sanyaya, wanda ake kira fiber thermal shrinkage.Adadin tsayi kafin da bayan thermal shrinkage ana kiransa da thermal shrinkage rate, wanda gabaɗaya ana bayyana shi da yawan adadin fiber tsawon shrinkage a cikin ruwan zãfi a 100 ℃;Hakanan ana amfani da hanyar iska mai zafi don auna yawan raguwa a cikin iska mai zafi sama da 100 ℃, kuma ana amfani da hanyar tururi don auna yawan raguwar tururi sama da 100 ℃.Ayyukan zaruruwa kuma sun bambanta a ƙarƙashin yanayi daban-daban kamar tsarin ciki, zafin jiki na dumama da lokaci.Misali, raguwar ruwan zãfi na fiber na polyester da aka sarrafa shine 1%, ƙarancin ruwan zãfi na vinylon shine 5%, kuma ƙarancin iska mai zafi na nailan shine 50%.Zaɓuɓɓuka suna da alaƙa ta kud da kud da sarrafa yadudduka da daidaiton girman yadudduka, wanda ke ba da wasu tushe don ƙira na matakai na gaba.
03.The shrinkage of general yadudduka
Auduga 4% - 10%;
Chemical fiber 4% - 8%;
Polyester auduga 3.5% -5 5%;
3% don farar fata na halitta;
3-4% don ulu mai launin shuɗi;
Poplin shine 3-4.5%;
3-3.5% na calico;
4% don suturar twill;
10% na kayan aiki;
Auduga na wucin gadi shine 10%.
04. Dalilan da ke shafar raguwa
1. Kayan danye
Ƙunƙarar yadudduka ya bambanta da albarkatun kasa.Gabaɗaya magana, zaruruwa tare da babban hygroscopicity za su faɗaɗa, haɓaka diamita, gajarta tsayi, kuma suna da babban raguwa bayan jiƙa.Alal misali, wasu filaye na viscose suna da shayar da ruwa na 13%, yayin da masana'anta na fiber na roba ba su da ƙarancin sha ruwa, kuma raguwarsu kadan ne.
2. Yawan yawa
Ƙunƙarar yadudduka ya bambanta da yawa.Idan tsayin daka da latitude sun yi kama da juna, tsayin daka da latitude shima yana kusa.Yadukan da ke da babban yaƙe-yaƙe suna da babban raguwar warp.Akasin haka, yadudduka masu girma da yawa fiye da yawan warp suna da babban raguwar saƙa.
3. Kaurin Yadi
Ƙunƙarar yadudduka ya bambanta tare da ƙidayar yarn.Ƙunƙarar tufafi tare da ƙididdiga masu yawa yana da girma, kuma na masana'anta tare da ƙididdiga masu kyau yana da ƙananan.
4. Tsarin samarwa
Ƙunƙarar yadudduka ya bambanta tare da matakai daban-daban na samarwa.Gabaɗaya, yayin aikin saƙa da rini da kuma gamawa, ana buƙatar zazzage fiber sau da yawa, kuma lokacin sarrafa yana da tsayi.Yadudduka tare da babban tashin hankali da aka yi amfani da shi yana da babban raguwa, kuma akasin haka.
5. Abun fiber
Idan aka kwatanta da zaruruwan roba (kamar polyester da acrylic), filayen shuka na halitta (kamar auduga da hemp) da filaye da aka sabunta (kamar viscose) suna da sauƙin ɗaukar danshi da faɗaɗawa, don haka raguwa yana da girma, yayin da ulu yana da sauƙin. ji saboda tsarin sikelin akan filayen fiber, yana shafar daidaiton girmansa.
6. Tsarin Fabric
Gabaɗaya, girman kwanciyar hankali na yadudduka da aka saka ya fi na yadudduka saƙa;Kwancen kwanciyar hankali na ƙananan yadudduka ya fi kyau fiye da na ƙananan yadudduka.A cikin yadudduka da aka saka, raguwar yadudduka na fili gabaɗaya ya fi na yadudduka na flannel;A cikin yadudduka da aka saƙa, raguwar ɗinkin fili ya fi na haƙarƙari.
7. Tsarin samarwa da sarrafawa
Domin babu makawa na'urar za ta shimfiɗa masana'anta a cikin aikin rini, bugu da ƙarewa, akwai tashin hankali akan masana'anta.Duk da haka, masana'anta yana da sauƙin sauƙaƙe tashin hankali bayan saduwa da ruwa, don haka za mu ga cewa masana'anta suna raguwa bayan wankewa.A cikin ainihin tsari, yawanci muna amfani da pre-shrinkage don magance wannan matsala.
8. Tsarin kulawa na wankewa
Kulawar wanki ya haɗa da wankewa, bushewa da guga.Kowane ɗayan waɗannan matakai guda uku zai shafi raguwar masana'anta.Misali, daidaiton girman samfuran wanke hannu ya fi na na'ura da aka wanke, kuma zafin wanki kuma zai shafi daidaiton girmansa.Gabaɗaya magana, mafi girman zafin jiki, mafi muni da kwanciyar hankali.Hanyar bushewa na samfurin kuma yana da tasiri mai girma akan raguwar masana'anta.
Hanyoyin bushewa da aka saba amfani da su sune bushewar ɗigon ruwa, daskararren ragar ƙarfe, bushewar rataye da bushewar ganga mai jujjuyawa.Hanyar bushewa ta bushewa tana da ƙarancin tasiri akan girman masana'anta, yayin da hanyar bushewar ganga mai jujjuya tana da babban tasiri akan girman masana'anta, sauran biyun kuma suna tsakiyar.
Bugu da ƙari, zabar zafin ƙarfe mai dacewa bisa ga tsarin masana'anta kuma zai iya inganta raguwar masana'anta.Misali, auduga da yadudduka na lilin ana iya yin guga a babban zafin jiki don inganta girman girman su.Duk da haka, mafi girman zafin jiki, mafi kyau.Ga zaruruwan roba, baƙin ƙarfe mai zafin jiki ba zai iya inganta raguwar sa ba, amma zai lalata aikin sa, kamar yadudduka masu ƙarfi da karye.
—————————————————————————————————-Daga Fabric Class
Lokacin aikawa: Jul-05-2022