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Science popularization of fabric knowledge: woven fabrics plain fabrics

Science popularization of fabric knowledge: woven fabrics plain fabrics

1.Plain weave fabric

This kind of products are woven with plain weave or plain weave variation, which has the characteristics of many interlacing points, firm texture, smooth surface, and the same appearance effect of front and back. There are many varieties of plain weave fabrics. When different thickness warp and weft yarns, different warp and weft densities, and different twist, twist direction, tension, and color yarns are used, fabrics with different appearance effects can be woven.
Here are some commonly used plain cotton like fabrics:

(1.)Plain Fabric
Plain cloth is a plain weave made of pure cotton, pure fiber and blended yarn; The number of warp and weft yarns is equal or close, and the warp density and weft density are equal or close. Plain cloth can be divided into coarse plain cloth, medium plain cloth and fine plain cloth according to different styles.
Coarse plain cloth is also called coarse cloth. It is woven with coarse cotton yarn above 32 (less than 18 British count) as warp and weft yarn. It is characterized by rough and thick cloth body, more neps on the cloth surface, and thick, firm and durable cloth body. Coarse cloth is mainly used for clothing interlining or making clothing and furniture cloth after printing and dyeing. In remote mountainous areas and coastal fishing villages, coarse cloth can also be used as bedding, or as materials for shirts and trousers after dyeing.

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Medium plain cloth, also known as city cloth. It is woven with medium cotton yarn of size 22-30 (26-20 feet) as warp and weft yarn. It is characterized by tight structure, smooth and plump cloth surface, dense structure, firm texture and hard feel. The plain cloth in the primary color is suitable for tie dyeing and batik processing, and is also commonly used as the sample cloth for lining or three-dimensional cutting. The plain cloth in the dyeing is mostly used for casual shirts, pants or blouses.
Fine plain cloth is also called fine cloth. Fine plain cloth is made of fine cotton yarn with the size below 19 (more than 30 feet) as warp and weft yarns. It is characterized by fine, clean and soft cloth body, light and tight texture, less neps and impurities on the cloth surface, and thin cloth body. It is usually processed into various bleached cloth, colored cloth and printed cloth, which can be used for shirts and other clothing. In addition, plain cloth (also known as spinning) made of cotton yarn with size below 15 (more than 40 feet count) and thin plain cloth made of fine count (high count) cotton yarn are called glass yarn or Bali yarn, which have good air permeability and are suitable for making summer coats, blouses, curtains and other decorative fabrics. Fine cloth is mostly used as grey cloth for bleached cloth, colored cloth and patterned cloth.

(2.)Poplin
Poplin is the main variety of cotton cloth. It has both silk style and similar feel and appearance, so it is called poplin. It is a fine, super dense cotton fabric. Poplin cloth has clear grain, full grain, smooth and tight, neat and smooth feel, and has printing and dyeing, yarn dyed stripe and other patterns and varieties.

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Poplin is divided according to weaving patterns and colors, including hidden stripe hidden lattice poplin, satin stripe satin lattice poplin, jacquard poplin, etc., which is suitable for senior men’s and women’s shirts. According to the printing and dyeing of plain poplin, there are also bleached poplin, variegated poplin and printed poplin. Printed poplin is usually used for women’s and children’s clothing in summer. According to the quality of the yarn used, there are combed full line poplin and ordinary combed poplin, which are suitable for shirts and skirts of different grades.

(3.)Cotton Voile
Different from poplin, Bali yarn has a very small density. It is a thin and translucent plain fabric woven with fine count strong twist yarn (more than 60 feet). It has high transparency, so it is also called “glass yarn”. Although Bali yarn is very thin, it is made of combed fine cotton yarn with reinforced twist, so the fabric is transparent, feels cool and elastic, and has good moisture absorption and permeability.

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The warp and weft yarns of Balinese yarn are either single yarns or ply yarns. According to different processing, glass yarn includes dyed glass yarn, bleached glass yarn, printed glass yarn, yarn dyed jacquard glass yarn. Usually used for summer clothing fabrics, such as women’s summer skirts, men’s shirts, children’s clothing, or handkerchiefs, veils, curtains, furniture fabrics and other decorative fabrics.

(4.)Cambric

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The raw material of hemp yarn is not hemp, nor is it a cotton fabric mixed with hemp fiber. Instead, it is a thin cotton fabric that is made of fine cotton yarn with tight twist as warp and weft yarn and plain weave weave. The changed square weave, also known as linen like weave, makes the cloth surface show straight convex stripes or various stripes, similar to the appearance of linen; The fabric is light, smooth, flat, fine, clean, less dense, breathable and comfortable, and has a linen style, so it is called “linen yarn”. However, due to its organizational structure, its shrinkage rate in the weft direction is larger than that in the warp direction, so it should be improved as much as possible. In addition to the pre shrinkage in the water, attention should be paid to the allowance when sewing clothes. Hemp yarn has many kinds of bleaching, dyeing, printing, jacquard, yarn dyed, etc. It is suitable for making men’s and women’s shirts, children’s clothes, pajamas, skirts, handkerchiefs and decorative fabrics. In recent years, polyester/cotton, polyester/linen, Uygur/cotton and other blended yarns are commonly used in the market.

(5.)Canvas

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Canvas is a kind of thick fabric. Its warp and weft yarns are all made of multiple strands of yarn, which are generally woven with plain weave. It is also woven with double weft plain or twill and satin weave. It is called “canvas” because it was originally used in sailboats. Canvas is rough and stiff, tight and thick, firm and wear-resistant. It is mostly used for men’s and women’s autumn and winter coats, jackets, raincoats or down jackets. Due to the different yarn thickness, it can be divided into rough canvas and fine canvas. Generally, the former is mainly used for covering, filtering, protection, shoes, backpacks and other purposes; The latter is mostly used for clothing production, especially after washing and polishing, which gives canvas a soft feel and makes it more comfortable to wear.


Post time: Dec-12-2022